Fanelli's Cafe 94 Prince Street @ Mercer New York, NY (212) 226-9412

A Pugilist amongst Prada.  As seemingly out of place as a boxer in a beauty pageant.  So it is with Fanelli’s Café in the heart of New York's SoHo.

The rustic landmark bar with a bright red neon sign hanging high above double glass doors stands stoically on the corner of Prince and Mercer Streets unassumingly dispensing everyman libations, while ever-encroaching high-end retail establishments draw throngs of fashionistas to go slumming through the gallery-laden streets in “designer causal” garb. Perhaps no greater anomaly exists in the former factory and warehouse district south of Houston save the idea of “starving artists” living in $5000 a month lofts.

Founded in 1847, Fanelli’s is a throwback to the beer and burgers joints of old, with its tile floor, boxing memorabilia lining the walls, and a long dark bar tended on most nights, by no nonsense tapsters who realize theirs is a dying breed. Bob, an often-cantankerous mixologist at Fanelli’s is perhaps the best example of the Bruiser/Boozer/Bartender genre that can be found at some of New York’s older tin ceiling establishments. One early evening I watched in bewilderment as Bob emerged from a crawl space behind the bar like a punch-drunk fighter inexplicably answering the final round’s bell, having, it appeared, slept off the remnants of one shift, and though still bleary-eyed, began another.

Even with all its charm, Fanelli’s is not without problems.  It can, especially on weekends, get crowded, and if not seated at the bar, the narrow space between the barstools and the row of red and white checker-clothed tables is extremely tight. The bar is very smoker-friendly, as are most of the City’s older taverns, and the blue haze can get as thick as Roberto Duran’s accent, particularly when some foreign visitors stop in to rest their Prada-clad feet.

Fanelli’s however maintains a nice selection of moderately priced beers on tap, and a well-stocked bar to wet the whistle of the most discerning drinker. Hamburgers and fries are of course served, as well as the type of pub fare you would expect from such an establishment, but it is not the grub that keeps Fanelli’s on the short list.

While the bar may not transport you back to a by-gone era, it is the ideal respite for one looking to avoid yet another session of retail therapy in what has become the haute couture walking mall of America.  Leave the shopping to the flyweights, and enjoy a few rounds with the champ of SoHo. -C.M.

Comments

cascade  
9/3/2010 2:27 pm

Many years ago as a student at New York University, I decided to explore Soho with my girlfriend one morning. I thought we spent too much time in the "Village" and needed to explore new ground. Not sure where to go we walked down West Broadway to the end, and then headed back marveling at the magnificent architechture of a by gone era all along the way. Then it began to rain and as we had worked up an appetite we ducked into what looked like some old diner with the sign Cafe above the door. It was love at first sight, and truly like stepping back into time. That was almost twenty years ago to the day and since then I have spent many a night sharing stories with the fasciting crowd that gathers at Fanelli's including Bob the bartender, who I now consider part of the family. I recenlty flew out to New York from California with my family and had a chance to duck into Fanellis a few times and see Bob and the crew. Even met a few new up and coming writers and we agreed I will buy them beers sometime out in Cali. Cafe Fanelli may sit amongst the most expensive fashion stores in the world, but it is truly the most civilized drinking establishment I have ever visited. Do not take me too literrally on that either, Bob, the former boxer, can, and still will throw you out the door if you dont play by the rules! All in good fun though and still the best bar in New York City. -John C.

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